Travnik September 22, 2010

Travnik. The road trip was easy. I jumped on the road to school and just kept going for an hour. Simple except for some of the road signs. One sign would say 50, which means 50 km/hr. But then there would be a sign with lines through it but no new speed limit so I asked, “What the hell does that mean?” Honey suggested I not drive that crossed out speed. I figure it means I’ll get a ticket for 50, but everything else is open. That’s logical, right? We never got lost, but doubted ourselves for a moment. So I stopped an old man by the side of the road and asked for directions. I keep forgetting I can’t understand. I nodded, watched his hands, smiled, and thanked him. I am that guy. I’ll ask for directions, but….

To sum up the history of Travnik, and plagiarize straight from the information card, the medieval fort is in the best condition of forts in the area due to the fact that the Turks took it over and inhabited it afterwards. Erected in the 15th century, positioned to supervise the road, the fort was eventually made suitable for fire arms and artillery. The town and fort represents rare examples of the different phases of architectural styles such as medieval, Turkish, and Austro-Hungarian. There was a pump for water within the fort.

It really is more of a fort than castle. There are large courtyards, and places for barracks and dining halls.

The road in over the stream/river is imposing, the mosque was built at the end of the 15th century and incorporated into the wall stands taller than the tower that is still standing, but to one side are the remains of another tower. The view of the valley is magnificent, and we found pictures of a music festival that happened this summer in the courtyard on a stage and bleachers.

Travnik is being rebuilt. My big pondering is my preference for castles. I guess I would prefer to see them in their height and glory, but after standing six hundred years, that glory could be several different periods, with scores of years of neglect between. Do I want to see them tumbled down and over run, but still find polished stones due to hundreds of years of foot traffic? Yes! Do I want to see them rebuilt to their original height, wall thickness, and imposing greatness? Yes! I am split on this debate.

It was a fun afternoon, finishing with a walk through town, lunch, and an open market surrounding fish ponds.