Where in the World are the Varvels Today?: Dubrovnik Part 2

Dubrovnik Part 2, September 10-12, 2010

Honey suggested we research castles that might be on the way to Croatia, and stop at one during the drive. So, after some research, we found Pocitelj (Po-see-i-te-lee) and decided it looked interesting. Heading from Mostar to Dubrovnik, it is nearly impossible to miss. This is my favorite castle, EVER, so far in my life.

There is a small town (village?) within the walls, and every little cranny of the tower can be explored. I am sure there are passages long covered by dirt and rock that my exploratory self would give a small finger to check out, but everything is open, some parts overgrown. There is some reconstruction but it is not obvious nor does it seem to be the majority. For example, there is a roof on the tower and annoying graffiti inside, but that is fine. The view is amazing from the top, after flights of tiny, steep, stone steps. This is the type of stairway that would never, ever, appear in America. I love every single worn step.

It is small enough to be explored in several hours and large enough to stun me with how much work it took to build.

Fourteen families live in the village. The abandoned houses seem to be in fairly good condition, and the inhabited homes are places of gardens, green grass, and quiet solitude. Need I say I would buy one in a heartbeat?

An artist colony owns some of the houses, and a beautiful mosque has been built in the middle. We walked along the walls and looked into one backyard (I guess that makes us Peeping Toms) and decided that was where we wanted to retire.

At the entrance of the walled town are shops- tasteful tourist types of things, with a restaurant to satisfy the thirst bourn from walking up steep paths and stairs. I suggest trying the Bitter Lemon drink. It is great after a hot day of walking up and down. I must mention the faucets that are available along the way. They are common in the country in the side of mosque walls, and are always pure and drinkable. We had some of the best water in Pocitelj at some of these faucets.